Ramallah is fast becoming one of my favorite cities (although nothing can rival Jerusalem. Not even San Francisco.) The first time I went was with Devora on a Friday, which was a huge mistake. We had gone on Friday morning, thinking that this would give us some time to see Ramallah before Shabbat started. However, we never connected the dots; the majority of people in Ramallah are Muslim, and therefore their day off is Friday. Almost nothing was open, there were very few people outside, and to top it all of, it was raining.
I went back a couple of weeks ago to get a visa for Jordan. I had tried first to get a visa at the Jordanian Embassy in Tel Aviv, but they stop issuing visas at 1:30pm, which didn't give me enough time to get to there after ulpan. They suggested I go to the consulate in Ramallah. I was a little skeptical, because the Jordanian Embassy in Tel Aviv was unable to tell me the address of the Jordanian Consulate in Ramallah. There advice was just to "ask anybody." However, not seeing a better solution, that's what I did. I got off the bus, walked into the nearest building, and asked for someone who spoke English. In less than five minutes I was on my way, with the address to the Jordanian Consulate conveniently written down for me in Arabic.
My experiences in Ramallah have all been wonderful. I've never had any problems. (However, I've also never spoken Hebrew or done something that identified me as Jewish.)
I went to Ramallah a couple of days ago for ice cream. I had spent a good part of the afternoon exploring the Underground Prisoners Museum in Jerusalem (it's very nice - I highly recommend it.) It was the day that my family would have left Israel, if they had gotten here in the first place. I was feeling pretty down, and so decided I'd go to Rukab's in Ramallah for ice cream as a pick-me-up. I ordered delicious caramel and chocolate with mini white chocolate chips ice cream, and sat down to enjoy my ice cream and my book.
Then I figured I was already in Ramallah, so I might as well take advantage of the four shekel falafel (it's 12 shekels in Jerusalem.) I also picked up some Betty Crocker cake mixes for my birthday, which I have yet to find in Jerusalem.
After walking around in circles for a good half hour, looking for the right bus station (Ramallah has four bus stations - who's idea was that?!) I asked a police officer for directions. He smiled apologetically to me, and said he didn't speak English. So I asked him for "servees Al-Quds" (roughly translates as "Jerusalem Bus.") When he realized I didn't understand a single word of his directions, he gestured to me to follow him, and he walked me directly to the correct bus station. I thanked him profusely ("shuckran! shuckran!") and hopped on my bus back home. The Kalandia checkpoint was nearly deserted, and it took me less than five minutes to get through (last time it took almost an hour.) I was soon back at my house, still appreciating the kindness of the people in Ramallah, and the delicious ice cream.
*If you came here via Google and are looking for information on the Jordanian Consulate in Jordan, here are specifics: I took Arab bus #18 from East Jerusalem. It leaves all the time, and costs 6.5 shekels. It goes directly to Ramallah from Jerusalem (about 45 minutes), but on the way back it stops at the Kalandia checkpoint where everyone has to get off the bus and go through security. It can take anywhere from five minutes to more than an hour, and make sure to bring a passport or driver's license (not a teudat zehut, as Israelis are not allowed to go to Ramallah.) After going through security, there should be another bus right outside waiting tot take you to Jerusalem. Make sure to hold onto your ticket so you don't have to pay again. The Jordanian Consulate is located on Jerusalem (al-Quds) street, up a hill, and across from the Arab National Bank. Just ask anyone for directions. :D
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